myPlanetGanja.com

Following on from this thread: viewtopic.php?f=40&t=12075" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Yep, more spam Munchy
As we sold out of the first run of Aussie-made High Light LED boards, we decided to make another production run. That run has sold pretty well and so the next logical step was to make a business venture out of it.

So we now have a new company – Grow Lights Australia – and a new website: http://www.growlightsaustralia.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The first pic is a room full of High Lights in Australia that produces 10-12lb every two months with 3200W of LED

The second photo was part of a side-by-side grow in Oregon that produced over 1200g in a 4x4. There were four tents in total, including a control tent, interestingly all three test tents yielded about the same. The main difference was the High Lights did it in a week less time (because they have a better Red:Far Red ratio), and with fewer watts (670W vs up to 730W) than the others.

Perhaps the most interesting thing to come out of the test were the cannabinoid and terpene test results. The High Lights produced very similar figures to the other tents . . . except the other tents had supplmental UVB and UVA, and the High Lights had none – they have near-UV/UVA LEDs already built into them.

Here are the results. The bold figures are the Quantum Boards (QB) used along with the added supplements. If you guys know anything about LEDs, you'll know Quantum Boards are the standard. Well, not any more.


6 x QB96 Elite, 1 x 28 diode FR bar, 2 x 4’ T5 30% UVA & 6% UVB
Total THC: 19.8%
Total CBD: 0.7%
Total Terpenes: 4.7%


8 x QB288, 4 x QB35, 1 x 28 diode FR bar, 2 x 4’ T5 30% UVA & 6% UVB
Total THC: 18.7%
Total CBD: 0.63%
Total Terpenes: 5.0%


8 x High Light UV
Total THC: 19.1%
Total CBD: 0.64%
Total Terpenes: 4.8%


Control – 3'x3' room with 4 x QB96, 4 x rapidled FR pucks, NO UV
Total THC: 16.6%
Total CBD: 0.52%
Total Terpenes: 3.9%

Bottom line is, these things work and you guys got to see them first

Well I mean fuck, it's not like I was going to waste my time starting a new Planet Ganja or anything

At least my spam comes with added bud shots. And cowbell.

Gotta love bells:

can the boards be daisy chained?

Sure can. You can wire them in series or parallel. The limiting factor will be the drivers, as these are 225W panels and the biggest drivers we recommend with them are 600W.

I've even got a simulator here that can show you the light spread for any given grow room. Here are four panels (two per double heatsink) with each pair connected to a 320W driver (340W at the boards, 360W at the wall) at 45cm hang height and 80% reflective walls in a 4'x4' tent. The measurements are in PPFD (Photonsynthetic Photon Flux Denisty):

I like the idea of less heat

Lrus007 wrote:is there a fire sale ? asking for a friend lol

There is. You can use the discount code "FORUM" for a 10% discount – which we offer to all forum members

Also, all prices displayed include 10% Goods and Services Tax, but if you live outside Australia, you don't pay tax. 10% will come off the price as soon as you enter a shipping address outside Australia.

Finally, if you order a certain number of products, there are further 5-10% discounts.

So there's up to 30% off right there

bentech wrote:its a tough call
long stand as he is
given its so in line with our purpose

im willing to look the other way...

Aw, shucks guys

I'm actually doing you a favour – LOL! – because LEDs are the next big thing in growing, and I posted all the info on this forum before I posted it anywhere else!

You're welcome

But seriously, if you want to know anything about LEDs – and not just mine, but any LEDs – ask away and I'll try to answer. I'm getting pretty good at this stuff now.

Munchy, has that stash of vintage porn I sent you to look the other way arrived yet?

no, but that's ok, I'd really prefer one of your light kits instead

Prawn Connery wrote:

bentech wrote:its a tough call


But seriously, if you want to know anything about LEDs – and not just mine, but any LEDs – ask away and I'll try to answer. I'm getting pretty good at this stuff now.
:

i was watching youtube channel " greengenes gardens" he been using LEDs for a few years and i heard him say " the plants dont give a fuck about what colour the LED`s are"

what say you ??

im still waiting to hear from those exploring this diligently
indoor cultivation seems to have stepped up evolution quite a bit
this seems to be a new and conciderable step in that direction

dill786 wrote:i was watching youtube channel " greengenes gardens" he been using LEDs for a few years and i heard him say " the plants dont give a fuck about what colour the LED`s are"

what say you ??

I say that's completely wrong. Are you sure he said that?

Plants have different morphogeneric responses to different spectra which is well documented. NASA has done a lot of experiments on the best spectra or RGB ratio to grow plants for the least amount of energy. Not all plant species respond the same, and emphasis on particular spectra will benefit some species over others. For flowering cannabis plants, you want lots of red, some far red, a smaller amount of green and about 10-15% blue. Green can have similar morphogeneric responses to red, but most of it is reflected off the plant into the lower canopy. But green is actually photosynthesised more efficiently than red and blue, which is why the plant doesn't need much of it. Red and Far Red combined have a multiplying effect called the Emerson Effect. The ratio of red to far red also has an effect on flowering. Red is photosynthesised more efficiently than blue, but blue light has more energy in each photon compared to green or red, so again not much is needed. Red promotes yield, stem elongation and leaf thinness, while blue creates tighter internodes with leaf thickening and stress responses – especially in the near-UV and UV range – that stimulate more cannabinoid and terpene production. That's what the percentage figures were in the first post.

You can read lots of stuff here: https://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi ... 009399.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Buy Prawn's shite... he's a good guy. ;0)

i figured there is maybe a dozen people here.
so where's our free lights ? also fire sale was a joke..
since your country is on fire.

smokebreaks wrote:Buy Prawn's shite... he's a good guy. ;0)

What better recommendation could you ask for?

Lrus007 wrote:i figured there is maybe a dozen people here.
so where's our free lights ? also fire sale was a joke..
since your country is on fire.

Ah, and here I was thinking y'all wanted a spam discount.

Luckily, I don't live in any of the bushfire regions.

so i visited your sale site and had the numbers you posted on my mind, but i was either blind or more dumb than i already am ....

anyways i saw 2 versions of pcbs, red pcbs and uv pcbs, which is practical when you adjust your photons to your needs, like lets say the red ones for production and yield with fat indicas for example, or the uv for quality and lets say adjusted extreme sativas from the equator for example

but ... but ....

like most of us like diversity (no problem for me to have a titans haze standing next to a black domina - as i as a grower am able to adjust the domina hightwise to the titans in the means of lifting her pot so that both top buds have the same distance to the "photon producer" hehehe , luckily i am not tied to a fixed system which is nice for 1 strain crops only where everything is cloned to achieve the same morphological look) i am missing a pcb which has both chips uv and red as i want the best quality AND the most yield

further on i would like to have control of red and blue with a separate timer included, example :

white is always 12/12 , but i would like to control far red giving the plants 13/11 far red, so when white shuts of at 12/12, far red stays on an extra hour longer, considering uv, i would like to have em one day on the next day off, also i want to give only 6 hours of blue during "noon time"

that would be my starting light recipe for quality and yield, for sativas and for indicas, as well for everything else in between

as far as i understand the problem, it would have to run with separate drivers, i think your versions are fixed with one driver to make it more user friendly, and it depends on the driver that all 3 "colors" cant be driven with only one driver, and it would be a pita (for beginners) to have the possibility to control all 3 (uv,whit,red) especially with an integrated timer , seperatly for all 3

im sure you understand this problem, which starts occurring when growers dive more into photon science

will there be a chance to develop such a pcb with all 3 , having each one a timer and ideally only 1 driver?
im aware that a "control module" has to be put between driver and chip, but that would be my "dream configuration" white at 2500K - 3500K , uv (near uv , fuck it) at some 250nm - 350nm , and far red at 720nm , each a separate timer (which is capable doing a whole digital week, not just a daily 24h routine) and only 1 driver to keep wires at bay and to reduce confusion

its no problem to have this configuration the chaotic way (3 boards, 3 timers , 3 drivers) , but i would like to have it the professional version/choice

how high is the possibility to develop this "best" solution , to have this all in one , included with separate dimming (as i would like to give uv during veg too, but with less power than lets say in the last 3 weeks, where i would crank up blue to the max )

i wish i wish i wish ..... i mean im still in x-mas mood and new year was also around the corner where we all have better and bigger plans for this new year

so ?

when , what and how much ?

Hey deran, pretty much everything you mentioned has been considered. In fact, we've been talking about this a bit and concluded that the future of LED lighting will be to do many of the things you've suggested in an effort to mimic natural sunlight.

You are right that when the High Light boards were designed, they were specifically designed to have everything on one channel for economy and ease of use. And the features do do work: UV and near-UV for cannabinoids and terpenes, and a better red:far red ratio for yields.

There are multi-channel boards already on the maket, but as you say they need separate drivers linked to a programmable timer. I do know of multi-channel, programmable drivers, but we're not sure about their reliability at this stage.

ChilLed was one of the first LED manufacturers to do this and they still have a few systems left here: https://chilledgrowlights.com/our-produ ... controller" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

These systems use separate drivers and one modular controller that controls each of the three channels. One channel is white, the other UV and the other deep red (though it should really be far red, IMO).

Unfortunately they don't make these systems anymore because I'm guessing most growers weren't ready for it, and they were expensive and a bit complicated for the average punter.

Expense and market demand are the biggest hurdles. It's hard enough trying to convince growers that LEDs outperform HIDs – many are stuck in their ways – and even harder to convince them that they are worth the extra money.

So the short answer is yes, we could probably build you a system as described, but it would cost you. Have a look at the link I posted and have a look around ChilLed's site, including here: https://chilledgrowlights.com/yield-max ... ation-tool" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

If we were to do something like the above, my idea would be to have three separate LED products:

* A large full-spectrum white-phosphor LED panel or multiple strips with added 660nm for the main lighting channel and peak efficiency that would double as a stand-alone grow light;

* A near-UV/UVA strip (UV LEDs are another issue, as they are expensive and degrade fast – which is why we use near-UV LEDs) covering around 390-430nm.

* A dedicated Far Red channel for the Emerson and initiator effects.

Each product would require its own driver, but in an ideal world the UV and Far red strips would use similar drivers.

I would not put everything one one board as ChilLed did, as it locks the end user into that system and I really don't know if the market's big enough for that right now (as ChilLed likely discovered).

Having a dedicated white/red board would cater for most growers, whilst selling supplements would cater to those who want to take things further without impeding main board sales. We believe near-UV in the 400-430nm range is just as effective at stimulating cannabinoid and terpene production, and that is what the recent side-by-side test against UVA/UVB reptile bulbs has shown.

As always, it comes down to a balance between technology and market forces.

But hey, if you want us to build you something, we'll see what we can do

OK, so looking at ChilLED's Gen2 Controller, it looks like there is a fourth channel for Far Red that energizes for 15 mins after lights off, but I'd want it for 15 mins prior to lights-on as well, so I'd probably just use three channels for white/660nm, UVA and Far Red.

There are other driver control systems out there, but I haven't looked into them lately, so the above is just one example.

We could build you something based on this or at least give you a list of parts if you wanted to build your own. We don't have a lot of our own products at the moment, but that will change. And I know where to get good, cheap strips custom-made by another Aussie supplier.


You should build it yourself – that's half the fun

what about the spider farms lights??, ive seen a few reviews on youtube.. the dimming function is a bit fiddly sint it, you gotta have to unscrew the ballast and get a Philips screwdriver and turn anti-clockwise and then screw the ballast back again, surely there is a much easier way than that.....

There is. Depending on the driver, you can add an external potentiometer (dimmer). There are two issues with that: the drivers are usually IP65 or IP67 rated, but the external dimmer is not (you have to waterproof it yourself); and most growers, once they've set their lights, hardly touch the dimmer again. So it's not like you are constantly playing with the dimmer anyway. Generally it is set and forget.

If you do need to adjust the dimmer, in reality all you are doing is removing a rubber cap, turning a screw, and putting the cap back on. It's not that hard.

Prawn Connery wrote:Following on from this thread: viewtopic.php?f=40&t=12075" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Yep, more spam Munchy

CaliRoom.jpg

OregonGrow.jpg

As we sold out of the first run of Aussie-made High Light LED boards, we decided to make another production run. That run has sold pretty well and so the next logical step was to make a business venture out of it.

So we now have a new company – Grow Lights Australia – and a new website: http://www.growlightsaustralia.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The first pic is a room full of High Lights in Australia that produces 10-12lb every two months with 3200W of LED

The second photo was part of a side-by-side grow in Oregon that produced over 1200g in a 4x4. There were four tents in total, including a control tent, interestingly all three test tents yielded about the same. The main difference was the High Lights did it in a week less time (because they have a better Red:Far Red ratio), and with fewer watts (670W vs up to 730W) than the others.

Perhaps the most interesting thing to come out of the test were the cannabinoid and terpene test results. The High Lights produced very similar figures to the other tents . . . except the other tents had supplmental UVB and UVA, and the High Lights had none – they have near-UV/UVA LEDs already built into them.

Here are the results. The bold figures are the Quantum Boards (QB) used along with the added supplements. If you guys know anything about LEDs, you'll know Quantum Boards are the standard. Well, not any more.


6 x QB96 Elite, 1 x 28 diode FR bar, 2 x 4’ T5 30% UVA & 6% UVB
Total THC: 19.8%
Total CBD: 0.7%
Total Terpenes: 4.7%


8 x QB288, 4 x QB35, 1 x 28 diode FR bar, 2 x 4’ T5 30% UVA & 6% UVB
Total THC: 18.7%
Total CBD: 0.63%
Total Terpenes: 5.0%


8 x High Light UV
Total THC: 19.1%
Total CBD: 0.64%
Total Terpenes: 4.8%


Control – 3'x3' room with 4 x QB96, 4 x rapidled FR pucks, NO UV
Total THC: 16.6%
Total CBD: 0.52%
Total Terpenes: 3.9%

Bottom line is, these things work and you guys got to see them first

Well I mean fuck, it's not like I was going to waste my time starting a new Planet Ganja or anything

Hey Prawn!

Once I decided to start growing again I came back to a place I knew (like a car chase where the driver inevitably returns to the neighborhood where they're familiar with the surroundings! ).

I came back specifically because I was aware of the dramatic advances in LED grow lights since my last grow (I still have my old gear), I wasn't paying particular attention to it, but I remained aware of the advances.

It's fantastic you've been able to venture out into commercial business. That's awesome!

I have a couple of questions. I went to your site and it gives dimension of the LED units themselves but I don't see how many plants each unit can support. You know, like a Xw light can grow X plants through flower.

Did I scan the text too quickly and just missed that information? There was some (A LOT) language I'm unfamiliar with, to be honest...so maybe it is in there and I just missed it.

And just one more thing, if you don't mind. The options. Why would "Splash-Proof LEDs" be necessary? I mean, you'd have to have a pool party splashing around to even expose the LEDs to any fluids, wouldn't you? I grew Hydro and I don't recall any wild splashing - it's been a long time, though ;-)

Why would a "External Dimmer (Not waterproof)" be necessary?

IF you can point me to this information you don't have to recite it to me, that would be very helpful!

I do wish you all the best in your venture, sincerely!



,
WHAB

Prawn - Donde estas? DO u have any intesne UV-B in ur boards? I made a few but understand the lifespan of UVB is relatively low comparatively to UVA. I see there is some UVB in ur testing. Also how about UVC? Have you tried utilizing in the boards to help rid of Powdery Mildew and possible other spore?

Also it is more harmful to humans but I must say experiment show UVB bang Trich Production.

I test run an LEP (Plasma) unit which has UV-B spectrum. Difference is notable

Just picked this up at the local home improvement store, $50. The idea is this will be the veg light going forward.

That will work, however you will find that the warmer colours grow faster. Unlike HPS, warm LEDs have quite a lot of blue light in them, so we normally recommend 4000K for veg or even 3000-3500K.

Also, have you thought of using T5 LED replacement bulbs? They have a better spread of light and are pretty cheap.

And don't get caught out by the bullshit on the label: that is NOT a 500W equivalent light. It may be equivalent to 500W of tungsten (in terms of photometric output) but what you have there is equivalent to about 100W of HPS/MH. Those cheap LEDs are not much more efficient than the most efficient HPS and CMH bulbs on the market. CMH has actually got a better spectrum and would be my preference over a 5000K LED, which lacks red light.

Not trying to burst your bubble mate, but the LED industry is a minefield of misinformation and exaggerated claims.

It's equivalent to 500w incandescent?
Yes, only equivalent to 250w metal halide which is what I believe I need for my 600w hps bloom setup. No bubbles bursted.
Do your boards come out of the box ready to go or is there assembly required. Those hangers definitely require installation. Is there a more ready to go version? Seriously interested.

Here ya go. I could easily double this by adding another.

Vertical LED setups. You heard it here first, folks.

That's hilarious haha. I started clipping these to my pots in the winter.
Catch up Ripper, bro !
Also I look at GLA site pretty frequently - They have attachments for the sides of the tent / wall called buddies.
It's like a hybrid vertical method almost ~

ripper5 wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 11, 2022 11:19 pm

It's equivalent to 500w incandescent?
Yes, only equivalent to 250w metal halide which is what I believe I need for my 600w hps bloom setup. No bubbles bursted.
Do your boards come out of the box ready to go or is there assembly required. Those hangers definitely require installation. Is there a more ready to go version? Seriously interested.

No, it is equivalent to 100W HPS or CMH. Chinese LED manufactures talk complete shit. I will do the maths for you.

Average single-ended HPS = 1.6 umol/j
Average single-ended CMH = 1.6-1.8 umol/j

Your LED = maybe 2.3-2.4 umol/j

So, your LED is (at best) 50% more efficient than the average HPS or CMH lamp. That means 80W of LED is equivalent to 80 x 1.5 (50%) = 120W.

After all, if that 80W LED didn't replace 100W of HPS, why does the box say it does? See how they have hedged their bets by stating it replaces "100W, 250W of HPS"?

As for our LEDs, we've got a new version coming out next week that is completely hang and grow, so all you need to do is take it out of the box, hang it up and grow. But we'll still offer DIY kits. The main issue with pre-assembled lights is that they take up packaging space, so this adds to the shipping cost – especially international. Also, we can offer kits that don't include drivers so that if you do live in the US or Europe etc, you can source your own drivers from Arrow or Digikey etc fairly cheaply and then get free delivery. The drivers are heavy, so that also adds to international shipping. Driverless kits save a fair amount of money.

Those stainless hangers don't require any more installation than any other ratchet hanger. One end has two screws to attach to any fixture, and the other end has a hook. And our DIY lighting kits are very easy to assemble. If you know how to use a screwdriver and a spanner, you can build one of our lights (no wiring required – all the plugs and cables are "plug and play"). They're easier to assemble than an Ikea shelf.

mistergrafik wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 15, 2021 8:56 am

Prawn - Donde estas? DO u have any intesne UV-B in ur boards? I made a few but understand the lifespan of UVB is relatively low comparatively to UVA. I see there is some UVB in ur testing. Also how about UVC? Have you tried utilizing in the boards to help rid of Powdery Mildew and possible other spore?

Also it is more harmful to humans but I must say experiment show UVB bang Trich Production.

I test run an LEP (Plasma) unit which has UV-B spectrum. Difference is notable

Hey, I missed this last year. Our lights have UVA, not UVB. UVA is fairly benign but we can get the same results as UVB simply by running the UVA a bit longer. If you are familiar with DLI, you will understand how long-wavelength (lower energy) UVA can be run for longer than short-wavelength (higher energy) UVB without damaging your plants. All you are trying to do is stress the plant enough to produce secondary metabolites (cannabinoids) without impacting growth. UVB stunts growth, which is why we don't use it. Most growers want a balance of yield and quality (high THC), but to get that you need to balance UV against Far Red – one end of the spectrum to the other.

Mister Grafik wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 12, 2022 1:17 am

That's hilarious haha. I started clipping these to my pots in the winter.
Catch up Ripper, bro !

C01.jpg

Also I look at GLA site pretty frequently - They have attachments for the sides of the tent / wall called buddies.
It's like a hybrid vertical method almost ~

True that, I am in serious need of catching up.
It's because up until recently I couldn't begin to think about a major upgrade like one of these light boards or a tent, or what have ya. Very interesting....I notice Prawn's company has those buddies also.

Prawn Connery wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 12, 2022 1:52 am

ripper5 wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 11, 2022 11:19 pm

It's equivalent to 500w incandescent?
Yes, only equivalent to 250w metal halide which is what I believe I need for my 600w hps bloom setup. No bubbles bursted.
Do your boards come out of the box ready to go or is there assembly required. Those hangers definitely require installation. Is there a more ready to go version? Seriously interested.

No, it is equivalent to 100W HPS or CMH. Chinese LED manufactures talk complete shit. I will do the maths for you.

Average single-ended HPS = 1.6 umol/j
Average single-ended CMH = 1.6-1.8 umol/j

Your LED = maybe 2.3-2.4 umol/j

So, your LED is (at best) 50% more efficient than the average HPS or CMH lamp. That means 80W of LED is equivalent to 80 x 1.5 (50%) = 120W.

After all, if that 80W LED didn't replace 100W of HPS, why does the box say it does? See how they have hedged their bets by stating it replaces "100W, 250W of HPS"?

As for our LEDs, we've got a new version coming out next week that is completely hang and grow, so all you need to do is take it out of the box, hang it up and grow. But we'll still offer DIY kits. The main issue with pre-assembled lights is that they take up packaging space, so this adds to the shipping cost – especially international. Also, we can offer kits that don't include drivers so that if you do live in the US or Europe etc, you can source your own drivers from Arrow or Digikey etc fairly cheaply and then get free delivery. The drivers are heavy, so that also adds to international shipping. Driverless kits save a fair amount of money.

Those stainless hangers don't require any more installation than any other ratchet hanger. One end has two screws to attach to any fixture, and the other end has a hook. And our DIY lighting kits are very easy to assemble. If you know how to use a screwdriver and a spanner, you can build one of our lights (no wiring required – all the plugs and cables are "plug and play"). They're easier to assemble than an Ikea shelf.

So upon checking out the website, turns out you CAN hang those from a pole (shower curtain pole) That's really all I was concerned with, as far as assembly.

"Normally one pair of hangars can be used for each High Light heatsink: simply attach the loop end to one corner, loop the wire over a roof pole or fixture, and then attach the adjustable hangar end to the opposite corner, forming an upside-down “V” shape."

This little light I have just bought isn't even designed for growing. It was cheap & available on the spot. We'll see how well it performs on some seedlings first, & then some young plants in veg. They had a few sizes with less wattage & one that was bigger.
I have a little 70w hps security light & the light from this LED light swallows the hps light, even from several feet away. Will be interesting.

Prawn let us know when those new ones come out.

Probably next week.

Whab asked awhile back: "I have a couple of questions. I went to your site and it gives dimension of the LED units themselves but I don't see how many plants each unit can support. You know, like a Xw light can grow X plants through flower." ~. Say for instance the 235w is equal to whatever hps?

ripper5 wrote: ↑

Thu Jan 13, 2022 2:59 pm

Whab asked awhile back: "I have a couple of questions. I went to your site and it gives dimension of the LED units themselves but I don't see how many plants each unit can support. You know, like a Xw light can grow X plants through flower." ~. Say for instance the 235w is equal to whatever hps?

Mate, as we all know, you could grow hundreds of plants (SOG) or one plant under the same light.

Have you been to the website? It says right at the top of each product "The 750W HPS Killer" or "The 600W HPS Killer" – that tells you the equivalent HPS lamp each fixture replaces. Basically, you can replace 600W of HPS with 340-350W of LED or 750W of HPS with 480w of LED.

In addition, suggested grow areas are also given under each product, such as 1.2m x 1.2m (4'x4') or 0.9m x 0.9m (3'x3') or 1.2m x 0.6m (4'x 2') etc.

If you have a space to fill, let me know and I can tell you the best set-up to use.

WhiteHotAfterburner wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 20, 2021 5:09 pm

Hey Prawn!

Once I decided to start growing again I came back to a place I knew (like a car chase where the driver inevitably returns to the neighborhood where they're familiar with the surroundings! ).

I came back specifically because I was aware of the dramatic advances in LED grow lights since my last grow (I still have my old gear), I wasn't paying particular attention to it, but I remained aware of the advances.

It's fantastic you've been able to venture out into commercial business. That's awesome!

I have a couple of questions. I went to your site and it gives dimension of the LED units themselves but I don't see how many plants each unit can support. You know, like a Xw light can grow X plants through flower.

Did I scan the text too quickly and just missed that information? There was some (A LOT) language I'm unfamiliar with, to be honest...so maybe it is in there and I just missed it.

And just one more thing, if you don't mind. The options. Why would "Splash-Proof LEDs" be necessary? I mean, you'd have to have a pool party splashing around to even expose the LEDs to any fluids, wouldn't you? I grew Hydro and I don't recall any wild splashing - it's been a long time, though ;-)

Why would a "External Dimmer (Not waterproof)" be necessary?

IF you can point me to this information you don't have to recite it to me, that would be very helpful!

I do wish you all the best in your venture, sincerely!



,
WHAB

I missed this earlier. In addition to the above post about light areas etc, you don't really need splash-proof LEDs unless you regularly mist your plants or have an automatic sprinkler system etc. A lot of commercial greenhouses and nurseries have sprinklers, so we need to cater for them. For you average indoor grower it's not really necessary. But having said that, all our new lights will be waterproof because it's easier to make everything the same.

might have missed it to
how do led's compare to hid in terms of canopy penetration and useful distance theyre good for?

Well I love the 4- boards I got. These are not my first rodeo, in the LED jungle. I bought the kits, and as a retired builder of web/sheet printing press equipment, the units are perfect in every sense.
Every aspect has been considered, when you open them up.
The stainless adjusters, should be the industry standard, as true one hand adjustment. No other manufacturer ever gave me anything but hoops.
The board, fit to the heat sink perfect, screw holes were chased, cleaned perfectly.
Assembly took maybe 15 minutes, per board, I work slow with silly plastic gloves on. But I did not want to touch the LED's at all, while screwing the board down. The dimmer switch is ready to use, and located by the driver, where it so much more convenient then the wee tiny hole, wee tiny screw slot, I can not hardly see on my HLG's.
My older California Lighthouse LED, is fucking 45 pounds to heft up over my head to hang. It does make fine flowers, but fuck me is it heavy. AND it is HUNGRY for current, not at all cheaper than HPS... at all. It also did not bring out color like these GLA's are, not even a tiny bit.
That LED was over $2200.00 new, in 2016. I did not buy it new, but from the guy that took it back to the grow shop to resell, as he hated it. But he grew his crops with it like you do for HPS, well so was I at first. Once I pasted it up as high as I could get it, then it did a fine job.
GLA, I got 4- kits for about the same money as 1 CLH, led. 4x's the coverage, for the same cost!
So far my GLA experience just keeps getting better, as I learn more about placement, and pruning.
SMASHING good job Prawn!!

Woo. Been almost a year now – glad you like the LEDs! Yes, they work.

ben ttech wrote: ↑

Mon Jan 24, 2022 8:26 pm

might have missed it to
how do led's compare to hid in terms of canopy penetration and useful distance theyre good for?

Normally you hang them around 0.5m from the canopy. Penetration is a function of light angles that can penetrate the gaps in the canopy, so LEDs potentially have better penetration than HIDs as they have more points of light. In fact, the more LEDs you have, the better the penetration. You have to throw the Inverse Square Law out the window with LEDs because they are not a single point of light and the light from each LED overlaps the others.

thanks prawn!

you too web. great to hear the product is outstanding in so many ways

Hey rsin, I honestly wish, I knew how to express, how superior to every light source I've used, these truly are.